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Dieses über 100 Jahre alte Restaurant im Herzen des Testaccio ist die Wiege einer bestimmten römischen Küche, denn hier wurden traditionelle Gerichte wie die berühmte Coda alla vaccinara (Ochsenschwanz mit Tomatensoße) oderAbbacchio alla cacciatora (Lammfleisch) erfunden. Fünf Generationen später bietet der Erbe der Marianis immer noch diese Gerichte volkstümlichen Ursprungs sowie andere, leichtere Speisen an, die dem zeitgenössischen Gaumen zweifellos besser entsprechen. Das Restaurant wird von Einheimischen besucht und ist immer voll besetzt.
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Checchino became famous for serving the quinto quarto, which means the fifth quarter, the offal of butchered animals. Until modern day, the division of meat in Rome was made in the following way: the first quarto was sold to the rich nobles, the second for the clergy, the third for the Bourgeoisie and the fourth was for the soldiers. The lowest class proletariat could afford only the entrails, the quinto quarto.
The poorest workers at the slaughterhouse, the vaccinari (ancient term for butchers), were often paid with these leftovers, which they brought to the nearest eateries to cook up. This is exactly how the traditional cuisine of Checchino was born. This poor Roman style cooking has not only had influence on restaurants in Rome but has also sparked a new trend, a renaissance of "quinto quarto" trattorie including the iconic Trippa in Milano.
The highlight among the first courses is the Testaccio specialty Rigatoni with pajata, a savory sauce made with tomatoes, lamb intestines and a sprinkling of Pecorino. If you want something less extreme, opt for the well-made Carbonara.
One of Rome’s most historic dishes, the Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail stewed in tomato sauce with celery, pine nuts and other ingredients) was invented at Checchino. Not surprisingly, this is their best dish, which takes over 6 hours to cook on a low flame. The meat is so tender, it melts in your mouth. Also, don't miss out on the great Roman cheeses and cured meats.
The service is impeccable at Checchino, with the elegant manager Simone Mina clad in a flamboyant but elegant jacket and tie leading a group of white jacketed waiters. I was impressed with their wine serving ritual, which I've only seen a few times in Michelin-starred restaurants. In addition to a great selection wines (600!), you can choose from a wide range of grappas from Nonino to finish your meal. If you're lucky enough to experience Checchino with Farulla, you may be granted a tour of the historic cellar, including the tasting of some truly rare homemade liqueurs and amaros
But that's not all. As it turns out, Simone is a skilled bartender and happens to be the European brand ambassador for Botran rum. He has set up a bar counter upstairs to serve great rum, but also some interesting cocktails such as his long list of Martinis. Checchino is an absolute must visit not only for the food and drink, but to discover the history of the important Roman cuisine.